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Nazaré and Portugal’s must-visit surf spots,  a journey into the wild Atlantic

Nazaré and Portugal’s must-visit surf spots, a journey into the wild Atlantic

Portugal has captured the hearts of surfers from across the globe. Along its Atlantic coastline, the sea transforms into a natural arena where humans test themselves against waves in all their spectacular glory. At the heart of this revolution lies Nazaré, a small fishing village that has become the global epicentre of big-wave surfing. But Portugal is far from just this colossal phenomenon : from north to south, the country offers an impressive variety of spots, from gentle waves perfect for beginners to legendary tubes reserved for the most experienced surfers.

Nazaré, the stage for giant waves

The birth of a legend

In 2011, an image circled the world : American surfer Garrett McNamara rode a 23.77metre wave in Nazaré. In an instant, this village of 15 000 inhabitants entered history, forever changing its scale. A few years later, in 2020, German surfer Sebastian Steudtner cemented his name in the surf hall of fame with a 26.21-metre wave, the tallest ever conquered.

Behind these feats lies a geological secret: the Nazaré Canyon. This underwater trench, stretching 200 km and plunging 5,000 metres deep, acts as a natural funnel, channeling Atlantic swells and amplifying their power towards Praia do Norte. The result ? Titanic, fast, unpredictable waves that seem to appear from nowhere.

Giant wave season

From September to April, the coastline transforms into a natural amphitheatre. Two to three times a year, the perfect conditions align: a massive swell, north-west swell direction, and moderate offshore winds. The cliffs of the Sitio, overlooking the lighthouse, become stands for thousands of spectators eager to witness this extreme spectacle.

The Tudor Big Wave Challenge is the highlight of the season. Legends of big-wave surfing like Justine Dupont, Kai Lenny, or Nic Von Rupp tackle these liquid monsters, while the audience cheers with palpable excitement. More than a competition, it is a celebration of the ocean and its immense beauty.

Preserving maritime heritage

Despite its fame, Nazaré has retained its fishing village identity. On Avenida Marginal, fishmongers continue age-old traditions: drying sardines, mackerel, and octopus on wooden racks by the sea. In local taverns, the caldeirada (traditional fish stew) sits alongside grilled fish and arroz de marisco. Places like Taberna d’Adélia or A Celeste serve meals in generous, welcoming settings, where culinary traditions meet maritime tales.

Peniche and Supertubos,
the European pro surf hub

Around 90 km north of Lisbon, Peniche juts into the Atlantic like a sentinel. Once a fishing fortress, this peninsula has become the capital of Portuguese surf. Its most famous spot ? Supertubos.

This beach break, where waves break over sandy bottoms, is feared by pros due to its hollow, fast tubes, often compared to Hawaii. Each autumn, it hosts the MEO Rip Curl Pro Portugal, the only European stop on the Championship Tour. Since 2009, surfers like Italo Ferreira and Caitlin Simmers have left their mark here.

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But Peniche is not just for professionals. Baleal, a wide bay, offers ideal conditions for learning, while Lagide and Almagreira provide powerful right-hand waves for experienced surfers. Each beach has its own character, making Peniche a natural laboratory for surfing.

Off the water, life remains simple: fishermen and surfers mingle in cafés that double as surf shops, and streets come alive with wetsuits still damp from the sea. Here, life is lived with salt on the skin and wind in the hair.

Ericeira,
Europe’s first world surfing reserve

Just a few kilometres north of Lisbon, Ericeira reveals white houses facing the ocean. In 2011, it was crowned Europe’s first World Surfing Reserve, joining legendary destinations like Malibu.

Along its 5km coastline lie seven internationally renowned spots : Pedra Branca, Reef, Ribeira d’Ilhas, Cave, Crazy Left, Coxos, and São Lourenço. Each has a distinct personality. Ribeira d’Ilhas, with its long, consistent bay, hosted the first national championship in 1977 and remains iconic. Coxos, on the other hand, is for experts only, offering fast, powerful right-hand waves among Europe’s most technical.

Ericeira is more than a collection of waves; it is a tightly knit community committed to environmental preservation. Nutrient-rich currents sustain exceptional biodiversity, and international recognition is more than a title…it’s a responsibility ! Each surf session here reminds us that surfing is inseparable from ocean conservation.

Costa Vicentina,
the untamed jewel of the south

Heading south to the Alentejo and Algarve regions, the coast becomes raw and wild. The Costa Vicentina Natural Park protects dozens of kilometres of cliffs and pristine beaches, offering surfers an experience away from the crowds.

Arrifana, nestled in a crescent-shaped bay framed by golden cliffs, is considered one of the southern jewels. Its waves welcome beginners and experienced surfers alike. Authenticity reigns, with white houses overlooking surfers as the sun sets.

Further south, Amado emerges as the “little Portuguese California”. Beach bars and surf schools create a relaxed, friendly atmosphere. Protected naturally, the beach offers consistent waves year-round, perfect for steady progression.

Sagres
at the edge of the world

At Europe’s southwestern tip, Sagres gives the impression of being at the edge of the world. Cliffs plunge into the Atlantic, and the wind whispers tales of 15th-century explorers.

Today, it is surfers who keep the spirit of adventure alive. Tonel, exposed to the full force of the Atlantic, offers powerful waves, while Beliche, in a more sheltered cove, provides a gentler playground ideal for beginners.

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At dusk, Cabo de São Vicente becomes a spectacle: the sun plunges into the Atlantic, creating one of Europe’s most beautiful displays of light and calm.


Practical Tips, When and How to Surf in Portugal

Seasonality

  • Summer (June-August) : gentle waves, mild weather. Perfect for beginners.
  • Autumn-Winter (September-April) : bigger swells, ideal for experienced surfers.
  • Spring (March-May) : a perfect compromise between wave quality, fewer crowds, and pleasant temperatures.

Equipment

Water temperatures vary from 14°C in winter to 20°C in summer.

Summer : 3/2 mm wetsuit sufficient.
Winter : 4/3 mm or 5/4 mm for longer sessions.

Portugal offers year-round surfing, unlike the icy waters of northern Europe.

From the thundering waves of Nazaré to the wild coves of Costa Vicentina, and from Supertubos’ perfect tubes to Coxos’ legendary rights, Portugal displays an incredible diversity of surf spots…beyond the waves lies a living maritime heritage !

Fishing traditions coexist with international competitions, local cuisine and legends enrich the experience, and Portuguese hospitality makes every surf session an immersive cultural journey. Portugal is not just a surf destination ; it is a voyage, an invitation to the Atlantic, and a chance to experience its majestic power.


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